Sunday, March 1, 2009

The following taken from the Federalist of March 30, 1810, will give some idea of Wilkesbarre 50 years ago :

Memorandum of a Stranger in Luzerne

" Cloudy day — rain towards night — 4 o'clock, came in sight of a small town in this county — a delightful and extensive valley, sufficiently watered by Susquehanna and its tributary streams. Set this county down rich — the soil undoubtedly will reward the labors of the husbandman with an abundant harvest.

Came down into the town (Wilkesbarre) — found it regularly laid out — handsome place, though too many small houses for beauty. Streets terribly muddy — almost impossible to get along. Wonder the inhabitants don't have a side-walk, at least, so that foot people may not have their legs pulled out by the roots."

Mem. — Stone enough on the mountain at a small distance.

Query — Would not a good pavement raise the value of property sufficiently to defray the expense ?

"Came down into the street — extends north and south. What! Two men running horses ! ! Mud knee deep — Well, they sputter it agoing bravely. They spout it around like Mount Etna in a fit of the colic. Huzza ! There goes a man and his horse heels over head — spatter, dash, souse all over in the mud — ha ! ha ! ha ! — a new way of dismounting."

Mem. — Never run horses in slippery weather.

"Walked up to the centre of the place — saw a meeting-house — good sign, though seldom seen in this county — court-house — an academy, I guess, with one end of it fenced in — a jail probably, by the high yard fence — four public buildings, religion, justice, knowledge, and iniquity — curious compound. Wonder what old huge, antique stone-building that is with new roof and windows — contrary to Scripture — put no new cloth upon an old garment."

Query — Is this not what they call the Gothic order of architecture?

Mem. — Never build in that style — looks like the devil — this is the first building that bears such strong marks of antiquity, and which appears to have been too rough for the devouring jaws of time, which I have seen in America. I can find no date upon it — conjecture, built about the time of the second Olympiad.

"Went a little further — found six great, strong robust men playing cards without any concealment. Inquired if they had any laws in this state, or, perhaps, their magistrates are blind, like Justice of old.

Went down to the river — a delightful bank, save the mud, which, for the purpose of brevity, I wish might always be excepted, when this place is mentioned hereafter. A big house on the bank — foundation all gone from one end — a little more will tumble it down the hill — a good simile for the government of the U. S. A.

Saw a man drunk — he had business on both sides of the way."

Mem. — There was once an insurrection in this state on account of taxing whiskey. Saw another man moving with great obliquity — made inquiry — found he was a candidate for sheriff."


Query — Do all sheriffs in Pennsylvania step quick two or three times, and then with a long side-way stride ?

"The river is wearing away the bank very rapidly — from appearance it seems to incline side-ways, like the man I saw just now.

Two men rode up from the river — one horse kicked up and threw the rider head and heels in the mud — the people all flocked around just as they do to see dogs fight — made inquiry, and found the man was a Methodist minister. Well, if I remember right, this sect of Christians hold to falling."


Mem. — It may do well in theory, but it is hard enough in practice.

"I went down a little farther — saw a tavern with the sign of the vessel."

Mem. — Look in the morning, and see if this be a seaport town.

"Heard a bell ring — made inquiry, and found there was a Methodist meeting. After tea went, and found a great many people there. The minister delivered a forcible, impressive, eloquent, and scriptural sermon. Under such preaching there must be many Christians. Retired to my lodgings very weary. "

N. B. Get up early in the morning and buy cloth for a coat.

"March 21. Rose at 6 — walked out upon the bank — saw only one man up, and he, from his looks, will be down before night. At 7, went to the store opposite the ferry — found all closed and silent — perhaps this may be holy time with them — inquired if they be Jews, and this be the Passover.

Walked on — saw a new white house — very handsome situation — fence all gone around it."

Query — Has it not been a hard winter here?

"What! the printing office — 0, yes — where that important agricultural information came from — information so complete that it had only one fault, and that the trifling one of having no application on this side of the Atlantic.

Saw another store — went on, found it open and doing business — good many people in — inquire if this man does not tend his own store, and, of course, make more money.

Going back, saw a man without a hat — his hair pointing to every quarter of heaven — his mouth open, and both hands working daylight through his yet closed eyelids — hope he has a large patrimony to doze over.

Returned to the tavern — found a good many men come in to get their morning charge."

Query — Arn't these men ashamed to let their wives and families know how much they drink?

"After breakfast walked round town — at 11 o'clock went by the Academy — steeple as big as an eel— saw a number of great tall boys gaping, and leaning against the side of the house, and stretching as if for victory."

Query — Are they preparing to stretch hemp without anything to stand on?

"Heard a man talk very loud within — "'With what a braying noise he muttered, And thought, no doubt, hell trembled as he uttered.'

Went on — saw things which I shall never forget — returned to my lodgings sick — evening pleasant — many people came in, and as they poured down the whiskey they drowned out the politics. "

Query — If they should drink less, talk less, and read more, won't they understand the subject better ?

"Went up street — going by the courthouse heard a stamping, like that of a livery stable in fly time — made inquiry, and found there was a dancing school kept there."

Mem. — ' lie that will not work, by right, should not eat, And he that has no head may use his feet.' "

"March 22. In the morning — Over! over! halloo, ferryman ! "

P. S. I shall return this way.